B. Rubs

Traditionally, rubs were made for barbecue preparations to create an intensely flavored, crispy crust that would contrast with the moist, meaty interior developed through hours of slow cooking and constant basting. But now you are just as likely to see them on quick-cooking steaks, chops, burgers, and boneless poultry as a speedy way to surround them with intense flavor.

Most rubs contain a significant amount of salt and sugar, as much as 25 percent. The salt attacks the protein in meats, opening up the structure of the amino acids so that they are better able to absorb the flavors in the rub. At the same time, the sugar combines with the amino acids, creating a structure that breaks down quickly into hundreds of flavorful compounds when it hits the heat of the grill. These reactions of sugars and proteins, known as the Maillard reaction (after Louis Maillard, the French chemist who discovered them), is why browned meat tastes so good (for more on browned meat and the Maillard reaction).