Matt Berens and his brother, John, are third-generation farmers in Bentheim, Michigan (just east of Lake Michigan). They are also my cousins on my dad’s side of the family. Together, they transitioned from farming cucumbers to radishes, turnips, and potatoes. Now they grow non-GMO corn and edible black beans on several hundred acres. Matt’s experience typifies that of many midsize growers across the country. He talked with me late one evening in early April 2020 while doing some spring tilling.