Advertisement
By Anne Willan
Published 1989
Finest of all is aged Parmesan, valued for its concentrated flavor, nutty but not sharp. It is often grated to use as a condiment, particularly with pasta and risotto and with fish or vegetable soups. Parmesan and its cousin, Pecorino Romano, dissolve rather than melting over heat, so there is little danger of their forming strings unless cooked at a rolling boil. Gruyère is almost as useful for flavoring; it has a higher fat content, therefore it adds richness and melts more easily than Parmesan. It is the French favorite for sauces, soufflés and cheese pastries. Cheddars and other English style cheeses are often substituted for Gruyère, but it is important that they be dry: if moist, the fat may separate when heated. Goat cheese lacks the depth of hard cheeses, but adds its own lively bite to cooked dishes, for instance the Norwegian Gjetost is added to sauces for game. Blue cheese is also used for flavoring, often in a white sauce or salad dressing.
