Food that is cooked by sautéing must be moistened with fat, but not soaked. A brisk heat is essential so that the food sautés (literally “jumps” in French) in the pan, until golden brown and slightly crisp. An open frying pan with low sloping sides should be used, so that ingredients can easily be tossed or stirred and are not too crowded. Unlike deep-fried foods, ingredients that are sautéed are not drained on paper towels but should remain moist and flavored with the fat.
Only butter gives the characteristic golden brown color and rich flavor of true sautéing, though margarine or an all-purpose oil can be used instead. For everyday sautéing, an inexpensive refined oil with a mild flavor and light body is best, provided it can be heated to a fairly high temperature—safflower oil and corn oil are particularly good. Animal fats such as lard, bacon, goose or chicken fat are valued for their flavor, especially for cooking bland ingredients like potatoes. Use just enough fat to circulate freely beneath the food; too much fat will give the effect of deep-frying.