By Anne Willan
Published 1989
The best known univalve of all—the snail—is actually a land animal. Snail parks have existed since Roman times and modern farms can pack as many as a million snails into 200 square meters. Today, snails are fattened on a diet of cabbage, wheat or oats. The most commonly cultivated are the Burgundian or Roman snail, the giant African Achatina snail and the tasty little petit gris or garden snail. Many other varieties are edible and in Europe, particularly near the Mediterranean, gathering snails after a shower of rain is a favorite pastime. Preparing wild snails is laborious, so most cooks opt for ready-prepared snails that have been cleaned and simmered in court bouillon. These are usually processed in France after being raised in Eastern Europe, China or Taiwan. Recently the United States has entered the market, offering garden snails in several sizes. The latest taste in France is for snail’s eggs, more expensive than sturgeon caviar.
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