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By Anne Willan
Published 1989
Juicy enough to withstand the high heat of broiling, deep-frying and stir-frying, yet firm enough to be simmered and stewed without losing its identity, the common white mushroom appears with a huge variety of other ingredients in a wide range of dishes. Left whole, it provides an agreeably chewy texture; sliced it makes an attractive shape; chopped and cooked down as duxelles it gives an impressively musky flavor to stuffings and soups. It can be pickled, and when made into ketchup or powder it becomes a seasoning. Simplest of all is a salad of raw mushrooms marinated in a vinaigrette dressing with herbs. The one disadvantage of the common mushroom is its muted grayish brown color, which can be counteracted by cooking with lemon juice (à blanc), or rubbing a cut lemon over the mushroom cap.
