Wild Mushrooms

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By Anne Willan

Published 1989

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The wild relative of the common cultivated mushroom is the European and North American field mushroom (Agaricus campestris), which pops up in pastureland in late summer and autumn. The gills are bright pink at first, then darker, and the flavor more intense than that of the common mushroom. Relatives of the field mushroom include the horse mushroom, which looks similar but grows larger, and the wood agaric, which has a trick of staining red when cut.

Today, “wild mushroom” on a menu means one of the more unusual cultivated varieties. Given their high price, it is fortunate that they mix well with the ordinary cultivated mushroom, adding body and flavor. No doubt in time some of the more valuable species such as morels and chanterelles will be cultivated commercially, but they will not be the equal of those in the wild.