Charlottes & Creams

Perhaps the most famous molded dessert is the charlotte, traditionally set in a tall, bucket-shaped mold. Charlottes are rich, based on egg custard, egg mousse or fruit purée, lavishly lightened with cream. Favorite flavorings include chocolate, praline and acid fruits such as raspberry, orange and lemon, or exotic fruits like passion fruit and mango. A dash of kirsch or fruit liqueur is invariably included to heighten flavor. In a class by itself is charlotte Malakoff, made with equal parts of butter, sugar, whipped cream and ground almonds. Such richness needs a contrast, and charlotte molds are invariably lined with ladyfingers. For lateral support, the cream mixture may be layered between ladyfingers or cake soaked in sugar syrup and liqueur. Occasionally, fresh or candied fruits are included, but only in moderation as they destabilize the mold. Dessert charlottes may also be set in a shallow steel ring and the sides covered with trimmed lady fingers, or with slices of jelly roll or spongecake layered with jam. In yet another presentation, called royale, a deep bowl is lined with slices of jelly roll and filled with charlotte mixture. The texture of a charlotte mixture is important: it should be firm enough to hold its shape, yet retain lightness.