The vegetables in this chapter have a coarse reputation, often associated with times of hardship. For those with a weekly veg box delivery, it’s never the delicate greens or juicy tomatoes that languish week after week: without fail it’s the swede, beetroot and celeriac. These fruits of the earth might be tougher to love than those which grow above ground, but using the right techniques they’re marvellous, and don’t deserve their lowly position on the hierarchy of favoured vegetables.
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