Vinegars and Wines

Before concluding this initial foray into the Chinatown markets, I always make it a point to devote significant time to talk about two necessities—neither of which is usually included in a discussion of Chinese cooking. When I talk about Chinese vinegars and wines, I usually receive puzzled looks. Awareness comes with smelling and tasting, particularly the intense, aromatic Chinkiang vinegar, which is much like Italian balsamic, and Shaoxing wine, which is much like a sherry. (In markets, you will also see wine bottles labeled “Shao-Hsing, ” a common romanized Cantonese spelling.) I use them frequently in marinades and sauces and as ingredients during cooking.