Leafy Greens

In Mediterranean Grains and Greens (1998), Paula Wolfert wrote: “I foresee a time when purslane, nettles, mallow, lamb’s-quarters, and wild fennel will be on the produce counter, along with mesclun, radicchio, frisée, arugula . . .” And of course that time has come. In farmers’ markets all around the country, as well as in many specialty markets, a variety of greens appears each season. In the Mediterranean tradition, many Americans and northern Europeans have started to forage for wild greens and herbs that grow in their regions. Different varieties of wild and cultivated greens can be used interchangeably for salads, pies, and other main courses. As with any produce, greens need to be utterly fresh. Get the most attractive leafy greens you find. Don’t be afraid to experiment with new varieties. Ask the producers for guidance, and try new things. Taste different kinds of greens to choose the blend you prefer; the recipes are just to give you some basic techniques to forage on your own.