Soups Light & Hearty

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By Aglaia Kremezi

Published 2014

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A steaming bowl of brothy legumes, plain or combined with vegetables and greens, or a rich creamy kishk or trahana porridge, made with homemade fermented pasta are the most common eastern Mediterranean soups. They are fundamentally nourishing meals, eaten as a breakfast or a dinner, not as a separate course in the classic French tradition, where a soup is served before the main course.

Paula Wolfert told me that Moroccan cooks usually chop up leftover food from lunch, fry some onions or garlic, add water, yogurt, or broth, and make it into a dinner soup, a trait they share with my frugal mother.