Sourness is at the heart of sinigang, a soupy concoction of indigenous fruits, seafood, meat, or chicken with taro, radish, leeks, onion, celery, tomatoes, bok choy, or water spinach [kangkong], and chiles. The simplicity of the recipe belies the nuanced balance of flavors in the finished dish. I love true sinigang, and always ask at restaurants in the Philippines how they prepare it, only to be proudly told that theirs is soured with an imported, MSG-laden flavor packet. The poor sinigang! This ubiquitous comfort food doesn’t get the respect it deserves.