Ilocos

The Wild West of the Philippines

Appears in

Published 2006

About

In the 1960s and 70s, Wild West stories of shootouts between clans made the Ilocos region seem barren and hostile. But a few decades later, regional tours of the Philippines became de rigueur, and Vigan, Ilocos Sur, one of the “noble cities,” began to attract local tourists with its centuries-old bahay na bato [stone houses], museums, churches, and food.

Ilocanos will inform you that they triumph because of the harshness of the area, which lacks the lush vegetation of the south or the flat, fertile valleys of Central Luzon. They are known as tight-fisted and thrifty. (It was in the Syquia Mansion that I tried cow’s womb. Boiled for hours, but still rubbery, it was interesting, but not too tasty.)