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The Authentic Ilocano Pinakbet

Appears in
Memories of Philippine Kitchens
Memories of Philippine Kitchens

By Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan

Published 2006

  • About
Pinakbet is the traditional vegetable dish of the Ilocanos. It has been adapted and replicated with variations all over the country, so no dish could claim to be more Filipino than this mélange of local vegetables that comes close to the Western ratatouille.

We traveled to Laoag, Ilocos Norte, to taste the Ablan family’s seriously authentic Ilocano cooking. While in Laoag, we stayed at Palazzo de Laoag, owned by Manuel “Nonong” Ablan, our host Annette Ablan’s uncle. On our first night at the Palazzo, Nonong Ablan regaled us with stories about the land and its food. He opened a small bottle of duhat [Java plum] wine during our dinner of insarabasab [grilled pork loin], seaweed salad, and the pinakbet.

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