Nostalgia for Bagoong

Appears in
Memories of Philippine Kitchens
Memories of Philippine Kitchens

By Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan

Published 2006

  • About
Carla Mendoza Pacis is the granddaughter of Petronila Syquia (Mamang Nila) and Vicente Mendoza. She is presently one of the trustees responsible for the preservation and care of the family ancestral home, the Syquia Mansion, one of the highlights of any tour of the noble city of Vigan, Ilocos Sur. This is her account.
Childhood summers began when my grandmother, Mamang Nila, planned our yearly trip from Manila to Vigan, her beloved hometown. Mamang loved to travel with most of her large family in tow. Departure time, length of stay, number of cars, people in each car (titas, titos, siblings, cousins, friends, yayas, and drivers), luggage, food, and where to stop were planned with military precision. As soon as school was over, I looked forward to conjuring up the family ghosts at the old Syquia Mansion, built in 1830 by my great-great-great-grandfather Vicente Angco—and to eating the best Ilocano food anywhere in the country.