The Taro Leaves of Bicol

Taro leaves [gabi in Tagalog, natong in Bicol] are used for everyday cooking all over the Bicol region. They can either be made into pinangat [taro purses] or laing [taro leaves cooked in coconut milk]. The pinangat, according to Honesto General, author of The Coconut Cookery of Bicol, is the quintessential Bicolano dish. However, one will notice differences in how it is made as one drives farther south to Albay and to Sorsogon.

Naga’s pinangat was the most luxurious, perhaps a sign of the abundance of the freshwater shrimp (ulang in Tagalog, buyud in Bicol) in Camarines Sur and the people’s general ability to afford them. The Naga version contained pork, lukadon, freshwater shrimp meat and juice, and freshly salted alamang, seasoned with garlic, ginger, and lemongrass that are pounded together until fine. In Albay, the filling is a mixture of sliced taro leaves, pork, chicken, or dried fish. Down in Sorsogon, the purses are simply filled with sliced taro leaves with minimal seasoning. The purses are steamed in a wok on a bed of lemongrass. Once steamed, coconut sauce seasoned with garlic, onions, salt, and chiles is poured over them.