During my last few days in Manila, when time was getting short, I met with Fernando “Fern” Aracama, chef and owner of Uva, in the Greenbelt section of Makati. Fern, a Visayan, is one of the most respected young chefs in the Philippines today and his restaurant is a functioning culinary vision of the promise that Philippine food can offer. The best way to capture the spark of this gifted chef is in his voice, recalling what he ate as a child in Bacolod. Here are excerpts of our memorable conversation that late afternoon in Uva: