Un menu confortable

When I was a young woman in Paris–long before I had any notion of a career in cooking–nights about the capital city were gay and exciting, and I remember one of my favorite restaurants for a snack after shopping, or a good supper after the theatre, was a very lively place on the rue Royale, the Café Weber. It was a gathering spot for le tout Paris, quite elegant, and yet one could relax there and have a splendid time with friends. One of the things we often ate was piping hot Welsh rarebit, that classic fondue of Cheddar cheese on toast. I myself loved this cozy dish with champagne, close to midnight when the fun was at its best. Now, of course, my dear Paris has changed so much, and there are no more fabulous nights at the Weber, which has gone. But the memory remains and has inspired me, many years later, to create my own rarebit à la française.