There is a complex dissonance at the heart of Indian dessert culture. Anyone who has walked the length of a British curry mile would think that desserts, sweet meats and all things diabetes-baiting were at the heart of Indian culinary culture. Indian sweet shops are places of immense beauty – gaudy, unashamedly cochinealed beauty. Grimace-inducing greens, bridesmaid pinks and jaundiced yellows are arrayed in the form of Fisher-Price cubes, balls, wheels and squiggles. Okay, so you’re beginning to sense a bit of my disdain.