Lend Me Your Ears

Ears deserve special consideration because of their amazing texture—and I am talking about pig’s ears, because they’re the only ears I’ve been able to buy, cook, and eat. What I love about my Paris market is that I can buy pig’s ears fresh, salted, and, best of all, already cooked. My favorites are the ears that have been slowly cooked on the rotisserie, along with hocks and other assorted porky pieces. The juices drip leisurely onto the potatoes that sit in pans underneath, making them almost as tasty as the ears. The ears are crisp, burnt to just the right amount at the edges: all in all, the perfect take-out food.