Vegetables and How I Cook Them: Celery and Celery Root

Appears in

Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables

Published 2019

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Whenever I think of celery, I hear the voice of Paul Child. He is quoted as saying, “It was Julia all along,” in reference to how it took him some time to realize that he loved Julia Child, the woman who had been right in front of him for so long.

I had the same shock of the obvious with celery. I can think of no other vegetable that gets less fanfare; in part, I imagine, because it is so omnipresent in classic cooking. It is one-third of mirepoix, a base of flavors for stocks and sauces. It selflessly plays a supporting role.

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Vegetables and How I Cook Them