Like slow-cooked fennel, braised celery feels both refreshingly new and comfortingly old-fashioned. It should be melty and bathed in the cooking liquid’s flavorful sauce, a product of the combination of wine and butter. If you are using the very intense local celery stalks, you may want to peel the outside with a vegetable peeler. If you have cooked it to the point where everything else is soft except the strings, you can also peel them out of the stalk after it has cooked and cooled, but that can be a hassle.