Vegetables and How I Cook Them: Onions

Every farmer I know has at least one plant they fawn over—their favorite to grow. I’m friends with a farmer who is fixated on onions. She loves onions because they take the whole season. Not like salad greens or radishes, in and out in a matter of weeks; onions start and end the season with her. She plants the little nigella-like seeds first thing in February. Little green wisps poke straight up from the soil block. Every time she walks by, a little pass of the hand to brush them back, strengthening their cells and releasing the faintest waft of the onion to come.