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Introduction

Appears in
Ruffage: A Practical Guide to Vegetables

By Abra Berens

Published 2019

  • About

In 2009, my friend Jess Piskor and I started Bare Knuckle Farm in Northport, Michigan. I was a young cook, only a year and a half out of cookery school, but knew I wanted to make food that was representative of a place. Seemed like the best place to start was by growing it. Jess’s family graciously let us take up residence in a frost valley between two of their cherry orchards. We gave it a go.

At the end of my first year of farming, I was as poor as I’ve ever been, having plunged my savings into starting a business. I had two weeks before returning to Chicago, to a job that paid me in greenbacks instead of leafy greens. Trying to save my pennies, I was eating the last of our farm’s vegetables that hadn’t sold at the final market. There were carrots still in the ground to overwinter and harvest in the spring. The kale plants, which we had chopped down because they were covered in aphids, had unfurled little baby leaves, all tender and green. The chickens had been relocated to another farm for the winter, but I still had eighteen eggs from their last few layings.

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