Spiced Popcorn

Popcorn in salads may seem too odd. However, I was adding such a thing to salads at The Sugar Club Restaurant in New Zealand in 1988, and recently our sous-chef at The Providores, the fabulous Miles Kirby, did the same thing with his salad of blue cheese, popcorn, chilli and herbs.

Heat a deep pot, which has a tight-fitting lid, to hotter than moderate. Add a scant teaspoon of groundnut, refined olive or avocado oil, and add a small handful of popcorn kernels (make sure you buy the correct stuff). Shake the pan every now and then until you hear the corn begin to pop, then gently shake it continuously, never taking it off the heat, until the popping stops. Tip the corn into a bowl and place the pan back on the heat with another scant teaspoon of oil. Add a few pinches of chilli flakes, cayenne or paprika, cumin, ajowan or caraway seeds, coarsely ground coriander seeds or green cardamom seeds, finely chopped garlic or chilli, and quickly sizzle over the heat, then pour on the corn and toss together with ½ teaspoon of sugar. Store in an airtight jar once cooled, and eat within 48 hours.