The cooking liquid from mushrooms gives almost any sauce an ineffable finesse and is sometimes used in contemporary kitchens as a replacement for fish stock. When wild mushrooms are available, they can be used to give a deep, mysterious flavor to sauces. Their shapes also provide interesting contrasts for the presentation of the finished plate. Don’t, however, use portobello mushrooms—they will turn your sauce a deep gray.
Depending on the types available, mushrooms can be gently stewed in a small amount of butter, water, or court-bouillon to provide a liquid sauce base; the stems can then be puréed and used as a liaison and to contribute flavor or serve as the base for a vinaigrette, while the caps can be used to garnish the plate.