Until the arrival of Classic French pastries in Savoie bakeries at the end of the nineteenth century, the number of true cakes and prepared desserts presented on Savoie tables was limited. Many, such as the Pouding de Megève must have been made with a base of bread. Among the prepared desserts, rice pudding was first a favorite of the bourgeoisie and then, when rice from Piemonte became available sometime after the middle of the eighteenth century, a bravura dessert for farm women as well. What the Classic European pastry lore calls Biscuit de Savoie is called in the Savoie itself Gâteau de Savoie and has a very uncertain history. Historian Jacques Lovie cites several possible origins. The most ancient recipe might come from Pierre de Yenne, the illegimate son and kitchen master to Amadeus V in 1343. Another possibility is that the cake may have been prepared in 1416 by Morel one of the “queux” to Amadeus VIII, for the famous banquet presented to Sigismund, Emperor of Germany; baked in the shape of the County of Savoie, it was one of the delicacies served by Amadeus VIII, and may have played a part in making the count a duke. Another possibility is that the Green Count, Amadeus VI, might already have presented the cake to the Emperor sometime between 1373 and 1383. Whatever the date, the cake has a long history, and it is certain that it was baked along with the bread, since it requires a very slow heat. From historian Lovie one learns that “one would never use orange flower water as a flavoring since it would keep the batter from raising properly.” The flavorings did, indeed, vary, and could be grated orange or lemon rind, or precisely orange flower water and chopped praline. At the end of the nineteenth century, one started using vanilla, sugar, and anise from Italy. In a more modern, slightly Americanized version, I have successfully added tiny chocolate chips.
