In the Modern Kitchen

Appears in
Sephardic Flavors: Jewish Cooking of the Mediterranean

By Joyce Goldstein

Published 2000

  • About
In the traditional Sephardic kitchens of Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece, and Turkey, basic cooking ingredients were locally grown, organic, and unadulterated. They naturally tasted clean, pure, and vibrant. Seasoning was kept to a minimum, as there was no need to heighten flavors. Salt, sometimes pepper, a pinch of spice such as cinnamon or cloves, and a good squeeze of lemon juice might be all that were used. Common herbs were parsley and bay and occasionally mint or dill.
Today, with industrial food production, agribusiness, long-distance transport, and warehousing, most basic ingredients are not the match of those found in early Sephardic pantries. To compensate for this lack of flavor, manufacturers have laced their foods liberally with spices and herbs and have relied heavily on salt, sweeteners, and artificial flavorings. With our palates now accustomed to this flavor manipulation, it is not surprising that many of the original Sephardic recipes seem flat, stripped down, barebones.