Seafood

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By Paula Wolfert

Published 2003

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At first blush the concept of slow cooking fish seems counterintuitive, but, in fact, the Mediterranean has a large number of such dishes—slow-fried fish; fish slow-poached in olive oil; fish baked slowly in salt or clay; sun-dried fish; oven-steamed fish; fish marinated and preserved in olive oil; and en escabeche.

One slow-frying method I like a lot is the eastern Mediterranean approach to fresh sardines, in which they are fried in lots of olive oil at 300°F. These small fish, which have a high oil content of their own, cook slowly at the bottom of the pan, then rise when done: crisp, golden, and oil free.