Plump, iridescent, supple, and savory, the oyster was the reward of winter to its devotees. Yet there have always been a minority who looked askance at slurping a raw mollusk straight from the shell, or impaling a poached oyster from a bowl of stew. Adored by many, avoided by the squeamish, the oyster gave rise to a wide array of preparations: raw of course, or roasted, stewed, fried in cornmeal, cracker or bread crumbs, deviled in a mustard sauce, scalloped, baked in a pie or in ramekins, pickled, or dried. In December 1897, the Grand Lodge of the Ancient Freemasons inaugurated the tradition of public oyster roasts in Charleston. Quickly, the roast became a winter-time rite throughout the state.