Prologue

When I opened my restaurant in Melbourne’s Fitzroy in 2015, it was promoted and referred to as Ethiopian. We judged that to be a necessary compromise; most people know Ethiopia, far fewer are familiar with Tigray, one of the east African country’s nine states, which are divided mostly along ethnic lines.

Likewise, the earliest vision for Tekebash & Saba was an ‘Ethiopian’ food book inspired, in part, by the restaurant’s success. But as time passed, and the situation became more dire in Tigray, it was increasingly important that we differentiate and identify with our Tigrayness, if you like, first and foremost.

I did not want to bend to the pressure to make my food, my mother’s food, fit common Western perceptions about Ethiopian cuisine – like that if it wasn’t spicy then it wasn’t legit. The recipes in this book capture the true Tigrayan dining experience: there are no starters, mains or desserts, simply dishes that are often shared as part of a communal banquet for all to enjoy.