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As a prelude to dinner in most Ukrainian households, there is a separate, beautifully set table offering striking platters of tidbits. These informal yet often sophisticated appetizers are called zakusky. Ukrainians are grand connoisseurs of zakusky and since aperitifs are not common, they begin by helping themselves to zakusky. To Ukrainians, this attractive mélange, along with pre-dinner mandatory shots of vodka, make up the very heart of the meal.

The origin of the zakusky table is somewhat unclear. Some food historians believe it is a variation of the Scandinavian smorgasbord, a plausible thought considering some of the earliest rulers of the land were of Scandinavian stock. Others are convinced it has long been a peasant tradition and the perfect answer to the unexpected arrival of guests from the cold. First the guest is offered a hearty shot of horilka (vodka) followed by some tempting food to “quiet it down.” Customarily, Ukrainians believe one should never drink a shot of vodka without eating something immediately. This way the vodka behaves itself, imparting the guest with a pleasant glow and not a sledgehammer aftereffect!