Straight Out of the Can

A tin that you’ve been saving at the back of your cupboard can be the beginning of a beautiful pasta dish or a delicate savory pastry. But part of the fun of keeping a collection of preserved seafood on hand is the instant gratification waiting for you once you pull back the metal tab. The aluminum seal is broken, and you can smell the harmonious mix of salty ocean breeze and fruity olive oil. It’s one of the classiest ways I can think of to start a great party.

This is why, when I have a really special can of tender razor clams from northern Spain or a tin of sparkling silver sardines from Brittany, I like to treat them with a light touch. They’re a little like that awesome thirty-year single malt in your liquor cabinet—perfect for pulling out on special occasions, but probably not the first thing you grab to make your next Scotch and soda.