The French Art of Aging Sardines

Appears in
Tin to Table

By Anna Hezel

Published 2023

  • About
Just like grapes, there are good years and bad years for sardine harvests. And just like wine, there’s a whole world of sardine enthusiasts out there who collect their cans by the vintage on the label and even age these fish to improve their quality since some extra time in the tin can tenderize the meat, allowing it to gradually soak up the oil.

While sardines are generally safe to eat for years past their “best by” dates, as long as the can hasn’t been damaged, most collectors agree that the best ones to age for more than a couple years are the ones packed in olive oil, with no acidic ingredients or other flavorings. And as Margaret Costa writes in her famous 1970 book, Four Seasons Cookery Book, “Like wines, if sardines are good in the first place, they are worth laying down.”