The Homecoming

Rediscovering Xi’an

Appears in
Xi'an Famous Foods: The Cuisine of Western China, from New York's Favorite Noodle Shop

By Jason Wang

Published 2020

  • About

A bedroom in my grandmother’s home.

A spread of fresh noodles, ready to be cooked at my grandfather’s home in xi’an.

A seller of tchotchkes at xi cang market, the street market where my grandfather shops for groceries and bargains for deals.

Seventeen years is a really long time, but I didn’t realize it until the first time I returned to China. The Xi’an I left at eight years old was a barren, dusty place; the Xi’an I found at twenty-five years old was a burgeoning metropolis. While my family and I were busy trying to pay our bills, make progress on my student loans, and build up the XFF empire, the city was also growing and transforming.