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Yashim Cooks Istanbul

By Jason Goodwin

Published 2016

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“The foresters had prepared the usual refreshments. A great black tent had been set up on the grass, with carpets and silver trays, and jugs of sherbet made of sour cherries and oranges covered with a little square of gauze, the edges weighted with dangling beads. To one side a fire was crackling under a tripod, on which a cook was preparing a bulgur pilaff, and a little further off two foresters were squatting by the tandir. Long before dawn they had begun to make and tend the fire, fetching brushwood and logs, reducing the wood to a pile of glowing coals. The pit they had dug was invisible beneath a covering of baked mud and sticks.

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