The Ottoman Larder

Appears in

Yashim Cooks Istanbul

Yashim Cooks Istanbul

By Jason Goodwin

Published 2016

  • About
Istanbul stood at the confluence of trade routes across an empire that stretched from the Balkans to Egypt, and from the borders of Georgia to the Adriatic. To its soldiers, and its shepherds, it was an empire of mountains – the Balkans, the Rhodopes, the Pindus, the Taurus, the Nur, the Pontic Alps, the Caucasus, the Hejaz, the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, among others. The food trade followed the winds that buffeted the empire’s coasts – the dry summer Meltemi or Etesian of the Aegean islands; the cool Gregale; the oppressive Khamsin of Egypt, and its grim Simoom; the icy Kosava of Serbia; the rough afternoon Lodos that chops at the Aegean, like the northerly Maestro, cousin to the French Mistral; the Bora of the Adriatic; the damp Levant; and the Sirocco whipping up the tides in Venice, known in the Balkans as Jugo, and on Malta cryptically as Xlokk.