Cèpes à la Bordelaise

These large, fleshy bolete mushrooms are delicacies the world over. If you turn over one of the caps you will not see gills, but rather a spongy, often yellow surface full of tiny tubules. Italians dry them so that any cook can rehydrate and serve them all year long. In Italy, you sometimes see fresh porcini as large as the plate you are eating them on. They do not taste better than less Brogdingnagian ones you can cook in this pure, chaste style. À la bordelaise literally means in t