Lucien Tendret was the nephew of the great food writer and aphorist Brillat-Savarin. Tendret, himself a food writer, never left the family hometown of Belley, the provincial capital of a subregion, the Bugey, east of Lyon near Bourg-en-Bresse. In short, Tendret was a late-nineteenth-century country squire and lawyer whose sole distinction was his uncle. Not one to shrink from playing his only trump, Tendret published a pompous memoir of the cuisine of the Bugey in 1892 call