Pocked, rounded coneheads peek out of the duff and silently offer themselves to the sharp-eyed forager. These are morels, Morchella spp., premier mushrooms for the table. Unlike most mushrooms we eat (basidiomycetes, those club mushrooms with solid heads) morels are ascomycetes, sack mushrooms with hollow heads. They are foolproof to identify in the field. I once found four pounds in an afternoon, a very fine afternoon. Because they are hollow, you can stuff morels. Because of the odd and unforgettable apearance of their heads, you can use a couple at a time to garnish chops or a steak. But I love them so much, I want to make them the center of the story. So here is the most prized of all mushrooms cooked in the most fundamental way possible.