There is a reason why these blanched, boldly seasoned mushrooms are ubiquitous as first courses in busy, unpretentious restaurants from L’Île sur la Sorgue to Konya. They are incredibly easy to make. And they have a wonderful texture and flavor because they exploit the mushrooms’ ability to pick up flavors. Here they are napped in a reduction of their cooking liquid. I can also recommend marinating mushrooms in the same seasonings and olive oil. They are raw but tempered by the oil they have absorbed.