A very smooth and elegant mashed potato is the ideal accompaniment.
Remove any membrane covering the kidney and cut down the length between the lobes to separate it into two parts. Turning each part over, cut down either side of the white fat and connective tissue and remove it completely. Now cut the kidneys into their lobes, which are each the size of a modest strawberry.
Heat a heavy sauté pan until quite hot. Add a film of oil, then add the unseasoned kidneys (salting them before cooking creates an unattractive beading on the surface) and sauté them over a very high heat, turning them from time to time until they are seared all over. Tip the kidneys out of the pan into a colander or sieve to drain. They are definitely best when kept quite pink.
Without cleaning the pan, melt half the butter in it and add the shallot and thyme. Stew gently for 2 minutes until soft, then add the wine and cook for 3–4 minutes until it has reduced by two-thirds. Add the cream and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer gently for a few moments until it reaches a good sauce consistency. Whisk in both mustards before adding the drained kidneys, seasoning them well and reheating them without letting the sauce boil. Swirl in the remaining butter and serve.
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