Pizza Dough



  • 1 package (¼ ounce) active dry yeast
  • cups warm water
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 1 pound bread flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt


Soften the yeast in water. Stir in the oil, then the flour and salt. Knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, 15 to 20 minutes. Place in a plastic bag and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Easier than pizza, but just as satisfying, is the bacon-lettuce-and-tomato sandwich, and particularly its apotheosis, the toasted chicken club sandwich.

Ever since I was old enough to order champagne, the combination of the club sandwich and a great, slightly old, yeasty champagne has been the perfect palliative for many trying moments: I have just arrived in a hotel, too tired or late to go out for dinner; I’ve been out to dinner in a strange city, the food was bad, I return and call room service for this perfect combo; I’ve been out all night, the sun is rising over Hong Kong harbor, the Mandarin Hotel has world-perfect twenty-four-hour room service; or yet another business lunch is to be followed by a heavy dinner, and the understanding restaurant has put a BLT or chicken club on the menu.

The sandwich will not tolerate too many frills, but avocado and bacon or pancetta were made for each other; some mild Chinese black bean mayonnaise drifts along with the champagne or beer; some fresh-roasted pasilla chilies drive away heavy-morning or late-night blues; or some mushroom duxelles butter used on the toast comes close to wonderfully excessive. Whatever or wherever, the BLT and the club are the traveler’s and the night owl’s companion.