Black-Truffled Hamburger

Hamburgers are best in English muffins, a baguette, or a firm, dense hamburger roll. The bread must be buttered and toasted for that final sensual “push.” The fitting drink with this sandwich, and one without which the burger falls short of its overwhelming effect, is a luscious, old-fashioned, deep red, rich and powerful Burgundy—a La Tâche, any wine made by Roumier (his own or Comte de Vogüé), or a Morey-Saint-Denis—in a large balloon glass, so the perfume of the wine and the truff