Berry purees can be a base for simple dessert sauces and marinades (for squab), added to butter (for grilled meats), folded into mousses and sabayon sauces, or used to make ethereal soufflés (especially of wild strawberries). Whatever the use, the berries have to be pureed by hand. The best method is through a fine-mesh nylon or stainless-steel sieve or a food mill fitted with the finest mesh disk. Once berries are subjected to the violence of a food processor or, worse, a blender, color, flavor, and texture deteriorate. Put through a sieve, berries will produce a puree with body, which is very important when you have to add other liquids and do not want a thin sauce. Strawberries really need a food mill, since they are difficult to put through a sieve by hand. Blueberries should be cooked for 10 minutes and then pureed.
Push the raspberries through a sieve or food mill into a bowl. Discard the seeds. Stir the salt into the puree.
Cover and refrigerate until needed.
© 1986 Jeremiah Tower. All rights reserved.