Apart from the Italian zabaglione dessert sauce, I had never come across sabayon until a lunch I arranged in 1969 at the great Albert Stockli’s restaurant Stonehenge in Connecticut. Stockli brought in a huge silver platter one-half-inch deep in melted butter, through which were swimming four large “blue” trout, mouths agape, only minutes from swimming around the pond we could see out of the window. He passed separately at the table a sabayon made with fish stock, in which h
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