Truffled Sweetbread Ravioli

Any pasta shape that can be stuffed can be used here, especially if you are not up to making ravioli or tortelli. Truffles are not mandatory, for while they make this dish breathtaking, it is delicious without them. If you cannot stand the idea of brains, don’t worry: They are superb here, and you can’t see them. I invented this dish for Gerald Asher’s birthday party at the Santa Fe Bar & Grill, and everyone approved, though knowing what was in the ravioli.

I like to make large