Three Custards

The texture of a baked custard should be tremblingly fragile and as smooth as kid gloves. There should be the least amount of texture to interfere with the perfumes and flavors, which in this recipe are pistachio, orange, and caramel. Other flavors to use for infusing the milk are pecans, walnuts, almonds, fresh ginger, cinnamon, star anise, fennel seeds, coconut, and espresso.