In Ducasse’s wonderful book written with Linda Dannenberg, The Flavors of France, this dish was given the grand title of Piece de Boeuf de Chalosse Poêle en Croute de Poivre, Grosses Frites a la Graise d’Oie, et Salade Croquante de Coeurs de Laitue. To us, it’s “steak au poivre.” What caught my eye were the potatoes—fat French fries cooked in goose fat—the most sublime way to cook them, if not us
